WikiTravel is one of those internet miracles, amazingly thorough about local custom and practical details. It gets knee deep in all the gory details, like how in Israel you should not wave to stop a bus because the driver will think you are waving it away. (Hey Sarah, remember that time you almost kinda got stranded in the middle of the desert overnight because the bus didn’t stop for you? Would have been good to know.) This is great and all but then you get to the WikiTravel articles on war zones, and you have to wonder, who writes this stuff?
Some of the details are fascinating in and of themselves, some are ridiculously specific, and some feel strangely blase, treading that fine line into voyeurism and touristic exploitation. Here are some of the best quotes.
Gaza Strip > Buy
PLO Flag Shop. A bit tough to find (ask around) but unmistakable once you spot it. It’s the place to buy Palestinian flags, stickers, badges, and pennants. It was also famous for the legendary inflatable Yasser Arafat - a truly bizarre blow-up tennis racket thingy emblazoned with a map of Palestine on one side and a familiar fuzzy visage on the other - but as of January 2005, they only had one left, and weren’t selling at any price.
Gaza Strip > Get Out
After being deposited at the Hamas checkpoint near Hamsa Hamsa, go to the white caravan to your right. A man will take your passport and call ahead to tell the Israelis you’re coming. Ignore this at your own peril. Cross no-man’s-land, enter the concrete tunnel (note the CCTV and speakers playing helicopter noises) and wait at the row of doors. There will usually be a porter with a flask of tea there. Once a handful of people have gathered, one of the doors will open (indicated by a green light on top of the door). Under no circumstances attempt to enter the open doorways on the far left or far right; these are for foot passengers entering Gaza.
Afghanistan > Buy
[Pass-made rifles] make a rather problematic souvenir. Importing a firearm anywhere can be difficult and it may be impossible in some places. If you are travelling overland and passing through several countries before you reach home, it is almost certainly not worth the trouble. Also, if you actually fire any Afghan gun, there is a risk that it will blow up in the face of the shooter.
Iraq > Get In
The Kuwaiti crossing is complicated even more by the fact that Kuwaiti immigration and customs officers are even more strict than the Jordanians and anything at all can cause them to arbitrarily block your entry or exit. Sneaking into a military convoy is not advised as your vehicle might be mistaken for a suicide attacker by the turrent gunners in the convoy.
Baghdad > Getting Around
The preferred method of transportation is helicopter. If helicopter transport is not available, use of a fully armoured car or Rhino (armoured bus) is recommended. Within the International Zone (formerly known as the Green Zone) there is a free shuttle bus service by KBR. You can also walk to many destinations in the International Zone or use a bicycle.